The concept of Wiz is amazing and poignant. It was written to be an all black re-imagining of WOZ in the wake of the Civil Rights movement of the 1960's, showcasing the art and diversity found in Manhattan, New York. What the movie turned into was nepotistic, overly-stylized, jumbled, 2-hour long self-help training video. And while I'm not quite insightful enough to say I could see that instantly through the wardrobe choices for the film, when learning more about Sidney Lumet's film, I could see how these issues translated into every visual component of the film, including the costuming by Tony Walton
Dorothy played by Diana Ross
A seemingly simple outfit, Ross's outfit is an ill-fitted mess. It's much too large for her petite, slender frame and hangs on her much like it would if she were a hanger. At the time of filming, Ross was in her mid-30's playing a 24 year old kindergarten teacher. She was also recovering from anorexia nervosa. Ross forced herself into this roll, promising Michael Jackson for the production if they would cast her. This simple tunic and skirt ensemble reeks of an attempt to make her look younger despite her apparent aging. The bland, monotone of the outfit is obviously meant to reflect her timidity in her loud, boisterous NYC home, but it lacks any time of punch. I do, however, appreciate the lack of gingham. It was a ballsy move. Unfortunately, it didn't quite work. But she does get to rock some awesome silver pumps throughout the movie. So, there's that.
Michael Jackson as the Scarecrow
The unbelievably talented Michael Jackson is my favorite part of this movie. His song "You Can't Win" is by far my favorite, and the story of the Scarecrow becomes incredibly poignant knowing the turmoil in Jackson's life at the time of this movie. He's being pushed around and told he can't do something-get down from his post. And because he's been told this, he believes it. Whether it be the director's decision, the costume designers, or MJ's himself, stuffing the scarecrow with book pages was by far my favorite part of this movie. A man craving knowledge is literally stuffed with it. My least favorite part of his costuming has more to do with the makeup. As a movie attempting to honor the African-American tradition, I find it troubling how they emphasized his nose so much, especially considering Michael Jackson's famous issues with his nose. It just seemed insensitive. BUT, apparently it was meant to resemble a Reese's wrapper. That didn't translate into wide shots very well.
Evillene is the Wicked Witch of the West. And though there's no green skin anywhere to be found, the witch is certainly portrayed as someone green...with envy. This character is created to represent greed and power, along with laziness. Her costume is made to look like random trinkets and knick knacks have become attached to her; her things have become part of her. Evillene manipulates those around her to do the work for her while she takes in everything she can. The symbolism is ripe, but I, as a chubby girl myself, find their representation of greed offensive. Her size becomes a symbol of her inner character. She's fat because she's selfish. Her throne is constructed to look like a toilet. If that's not offensive, then I don't know what is. She literally becomes waste when Dorothy defeats her.
But despite my rants about fashion choices, this movies greatest problem has nothing to do with wardrobe. The Wiz, as previously mentioned, was written to become a voice for the African American population, a way for black actors and actresses to become stars of mainstream media. The problem is that the African American voice was controlled, in this film, by white producers, writers, directors, etc. Every important person behind the scenes was white, including the costume/production designer Tony Walton. So, though the stars are black, it seems that the voice is actually that of an old white man. Maybe the reason The Wiz was critically murdered because it was hypocritical.
The Wiz took 2 steps forward to only take 3 steps back.
-M.